The art of hand pleating

Pleating

Pleating is the art of folding materials and creating structures on fabric. Individual pleats are folds created by hand using heat, pressure and steam. Their characteristic feature is texture, volume and a distinctive structure. Thanks to them, we can change the overall visual of the fabric, the refraction of light and the effects on the garment.

The result is fullness, depth and volume of the material, which gives it added value. Pleating can transform even a simple straight material into a more visually interesting element. Plissé also brings a sense of sophistication to the wearer, which comes from the precise, professional and consistent work hidden behind its creation.

We offer you a custom fabric pleating service

We are based on an individual approach, where we always try to help and advise you on everything related to pleating. Whether it's choosing a fabric suitable for pleating, cutting it out, cleaning it, sewing it after pleating, or choosing the type of pleat you need.

We work with pleated every day, which is why our range of experience and skills is really wide. We have been through pleated from the very beginning and have learned to work with it and process it. Thanks to this, we have solved a number of technical challenges in the production process, which we are happy to share with our clients. And what we don't know yet, we are willing to try and will be happy to help you with.

Horizontal pleated straight

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Horizontal pleated straight

Flat pleats, also known as knife pleats or side pleats, have one side longer than the other. This means that the pleat folds under itself, and the fabric lies flat on the surface after pleating. Usually, the bottom fold is about half the length of the top one, with a standard pleat ratio of approximately 3:1. This means that from 3 meters of fabric, you will get approximately 1 meter of pleated fabric.
The pleat direction is to the left to hide the zipper on the left side. Before pleating, it is advisable to finish the length or the bottom edge of the fabric – for example, by double-folding, folding with overlock, or just overlocking. The edges can remain unfinished if that aligns with a specific design intent for the fabric.
Pleat size × maximum available mold height (length from waist to floor) × maximum fabric width before pleating = fabric dimension after pleating in the given mold:

  • 5x900x2940 = 900x1130 mm
  • 6x1380x3000 = 1380x1100 mm
  • 12x1380x3000 = 1380x1100 mm
  • 15x1380x3000 = 1380x1100 mm
  • 25x1260x3120 = 1260x1230 mm
  • 30x900x3180 = 900x1070 mm
  • 35x750x2940 = 750x1130 mm
  • 40x900x3080 = 900x1040 mm

Price: from €25/meter to €40/meter

Standing pleated straight

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Standing pleated straight

Standing pleats, also known as accordion pleats, have both sides of the same length.
In the cut we can see the effect of a canopy, an accordion, which is also why it is named. It is often used on folk costume skirts.
It is advisable to clean the length or bottom edge before pleating, e.g. by double folding, folding once with overlock, overlock. The edges of the fabric can also be left uncleaned if there is a different intention with the fabric.


Warehouse size X maximum available form height (length from waist to floor) X maximum width of fabric before pleating for a given form.
We do not state the size of the fabric after pleating, as this creates a relatively narrow strip of folded fabric, depending on the material used, which can be worked with variably.

  • 9x1380x3000mm
  • 10x1380x3000mm
  • 20x1100x1620mm
  • 30x1100x1620mm
  • 40x1100x1620mm
  • 60x1260x4000mm

Price from €25/meter to €45/meter

Box pleated straight

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Box pleated straight

Box pleat, also known as grandbox, hodfalda, counterpleat, counterfold or counterpleat, is a combination of left-hand and right-hand pleats. This creates a box effect, i.e. counterpleat. The pattern can be touch or with a gap.
We also offer double box, touch or with a gap.
It is advisable to clean the length or bottom edge before pleating, for example by double folding, folding 1× with an overlock or just an overlock. The edges of the fabric can be left uncleaned if there is a different intention with the fabric.

Warehouse size × maximum available mold height (length from waist to floor) × maximum width of fabric before pleating = fabric dimension after pleating in a given mold:

  • 33x750x2990 = 750x1345 mm
  • 38x1200x2970 = 1200x1015 mm
  • 40x1000x1560 = 1000x750mm
  • 60x780x2510 = 780x1285 mm
  • 70x900x2510 = 900x1230 mm
  • 120x750x2900 = 750x1480 mm
  • doublebox (double counterfold) - 54x1260x3810 = 1260x1020 mms

by gap (store size / gap):

  • 24/10x750x2990 = 750x1345 mm
  • 27/12x1200x1960 = 1200x870 mm
  • 30/15x1000x1560 = 1000x750 mm
  • 32/32x780x2510 = 780x1285 mm
  • 45/31x900x2510 = 900x1230 mm
  • 60/60x750x2900 = 750x1480 mm
  • doublebox - 40/15x1260x3810 = 1260x1020 mm

Price from €25/meter to €45/meter

Radial pleated semicircular

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Radial pleated semicircular

A sunray pleat, also known as a sunburst pleat, is a semicircular standing pleat that widens from the waist to the hem. The pleats are narrow at the waist and gradually widen towards the hem.
This type of pleat is applied to circle or A-line skirts. The fabric is cut in the same way as for a circle skirt:

  • 2 × 1/4 circle → semicircular skirt made of two quarter circles
  • 1 × 1/2 circle → semicircular skirt made from one semicircle
  • 2 × 1/2 circle → circular skirt made of two semicircles

When cutting fabric in the shape of a semicircle, do not cut the exact size in the waist area, just mark the center with a short cut (max. 1 cm).
When cutting fabric in a quarter-circle shape, do not cut the exact measurement in the waist area.

The maximum radius of a semicircle or quartercircle that can be folded is r = 145 cm.

Price
1 pc semicircle: €45 – €60
1 piece quarter circle: €35 – €50

Q&A

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What materials are suitable for pleating? Are natural materials also suitable?

100% polyester fabrics are best for pleating. They are the most dimensionally stable and durable. They can be hand washed at low temperatures or dry cleaned, and they retain their shape even after washing.
Blends of polyester with cotton or polyester with wool are also suitable. These materials require more careful handling when worn and dry cleaning is recommended.
Natural materials such as wool and silk can be beautifully pleated, but they require extra care when wearing and cleaning. Pleated wool is best dry cleaned gently. Pleated silk is usually not washable or dry cleaned because the pleats lose their shape.
Cotton and linen can be pleated, but these materials have a strong tendency to straighten. In general, silk, cotton, linen and other natural materials that are pleated have a strong tendency to straighten and not hold their original shape during wear and after standard dry or wet cleaning.

What to do if you don't know what type of pleated blind you need?

If you don't know which type of pleated blind is right for you and you have a picture of the pleated blind, send it to us by email. We will be happy to help you identify it and together we will choose the right type of pleated blind for you.

What to do if we don't have the pleated storage you need in stock?

We will be happy to advise you on the selection of the closest suitable pleated type. In specific cases, we can produce a pleated form with custom folds and dimensions according to your requirements.

Can you satisfy even demanding requirements?

Yes, we can pleate larger volumes of fabric and meet your experimental requirements. When pleating, we are open to various creative and challenging ideas. We can work with any materials - from leather and velvet to the finest chiffon or muslin.

Should I trim the bottom edge (length) before or after pleating?

The advantage of pre-pleating the fabric is that the bottom edge remains sharp after pleating. The disadvantage is that with loose-weave fabrics, the edge may pull out and may not remain completely straight – especially with circular cuts.
The bottom edge that was not trimmed before pleating can still be trimmed after pleating. However, a slight wavy effect may occur at the bottom edge of the fabric.

How can I be sure that my material is suitable for pleating and will withstand washing or dry cleaning?

If we are working with a new material and you want to be sure it will withstand washing or dry cleaning, we offer a service to test samples of your material.
We will pleate material samples and test the fastness of the pleated fabric in water and in a dry cleaner. We will then assess the samples and determine the appropriate cleaning method for your material. We can also send you samples by post for personal assessment.

What does the price of my order depend on?

Prices for pleating are listed from the lower to the upper limit for a given type of pleat. They may vary depending on:

  • forms and sizes of warehouses,
  • the material used,
  • material size,
  • material weights and bindings,
  • non-standardly prepared or processed pleating material.

The price per meter refers to a straight meter of material entering the mold, not a measured meter.

What else do I need to know before placing an order?

  • We do not have the fabrics in stock, so you need to supply us with your own material, or contact us and we will supply you with a fabric that we have verified according to your requirements.
  • Fabrics must be pre-shrunk with a steam iron before cutting and shipping. This prevents any shrinkage of the material.
  • Each form has its own height limit, which is indicated in the dimensions.
  • Each form also has its own length limit, also indicated in the dimensions.
  • When pleating, it is important to know the final size of the pleated fabric. This determines the amount of material needed to enter the mold. We will be happy to discuss this information with you.

How long does it take to process an order?

It usually takes 1-2 weeks for your order to be processed. The time starts from the day payment is received.
The total time depends on the quantity of orders, the number of fabrics in your order and current capacity, so it may vary.
If your order is urgent, we also offer express shipping.

Can you cut the fabric to the required dimensions and parts and also clean/work the edges?

Yes, it is possible to deliver the material to us in its entirety and we will be happy to professionally prepare it and deliver it to you as a finished, finished piece. The material will go through the entire professional process:

  • Visual inspection of the material
  • Ironing with a steam generator iron to ensure the material sets.
  • Cutting to the desired size
  • Possible machining or cleaning of parts
  • Pleating in your chosen type of pleats

If you are interested in this service, please do not hesitate to contact us. We charge a fee for the service in the form of related professional work of €40/hour.

If I supply you with material, what can I expect?

Throughout the pleating process, we try to treat your material with the utmost responsibility and care. However, there are certain factors that we cannot control:

  • Material shrinkage, shrinkage or discoloration
  • Defects in the delivered material, such as holes, scratches, stains, etc. (we always record these and consult with the client as soon as possible)
  • Instability of pleated blinds over time due to unsuitable material
  • Tendency of pleated blinds to straighten due to the composition of the material
  • Imperfection of pleating in unprofessionally sewn clothing components on fabric
  • Imperfection of pleating in case of improperly, unprofessionally or substandardly processed lower or upper edge of the fabric

These factors are related to the material and its processing, not to the quality of our work.

How do I pay for my order?

Payment is made in advance by bank transfer or in cash upon personal collection.

What is the price of shipping and packaging?

The price for shipping and packaging usually ranges from €7.50 to €17, depending on the volume and size of the shipment.

How to proceed when placing an order?

To place an order, send us the fabric along with a cover letter that will contain the following information:

  • The type and size of pleated blinds you require.
  • Additional details, if any, including the marking of the front and back of the fabric.
  • Contact information – phone number, email, delivery and billing address. In case of any questions regarding the order, we will contact you before work begins.
  • Type of order fulfillment – ​​STANDARD or EXPRESS:

    STANDARD: Usually takes 1-2 weeks from receipt of payment. Total time depends on order quantity, number of fabrics and capacity, so it may vary. If you want standard equipment, please indicate “STANDARD” in the cover letter.

    EXPRESS: If the order is urgent, we offer express service with a 70% surcharge. Your order will be processed and shipped within 24 hours of receiving payment. If you are interested in this service, please indicate “EXPRESS” in the cover letter.

After receiving your order and fabric, we will review it and contact you regarding the final amount and payment terms. Payment can be made by bank transfer or in cash upon personal collection.

I have a pleated piece from another brand and the pleats have come apart. Can you replete it?

If you followed the instructions on the label when washing (the product can be washed by hand or in a washing machine) and the pleated blind still fell apart, we recommend that you first contact the seller and file a complaint. This is a mistake by the manufacturer or seller, who did not provide professional washing and cleaning instructions.

If the product is not under warranty, it is possible to repair the pleats and re-pleat the material. However, the repair procedure is quite difficult and often uneconomical:

  • The pleated part needs to be removed from the product - only individual parts can be pleated, not the entire product.
  • The parts are ironed flat with a steam iron.
  • The pieces are pleated in the same or most closely related type of pleat. Re-pleating may change the final dimensions of the pieces and the stitching points, so the newly pleated piece may not fit exactly with the original piece.
  • The newly pleated parts are assembled and sewn together, creating the original pleated product.
  • Re-pleating does not guarantee that the pleats will not fall apart again during further wear, washing or cleaning.

We charge €60/hour for pleated repair, with the time depending on the material and complexity of the model.

If your piece is a favorite and repair seems uneconomical, we recommend simply ironing the pleats flat. The product will still be wearable and look better than with damaged pleats.

Do not attempt to repair the product yourself at home with an iron, you may damage it even more – burn it or knock it down.

If you are interested in high-quality hand-made pleated blinds that are durable and can be washed without losing their sharpness, do not hesitate to order them in our e-shop.